Mackerel, griddled cucumber and preserved lemon on sourdough toast

This recipe makes a delicious and healthy light lunch. You could use fresh mackerel fillets for this recipe, cooking them on the griddle pan alongside the cucumber. You could also substitute the mackerel for tinned or fresh sardines.


Takes: 20 minutes

Makes: 2 portions

Ingredients:

  • Half a large cucumber, or 1 small cucumber
  • 1 tin mackerel fillets in olive oil
  • ¼ of a preserved lemon, pulp removed and rind finely chopped
  • 2 large slices of sourdough bread
  • Good handful of coriander leaves, finely chopped
  • 1 sprig mint (about 6 to 8 leaves), finely chopped
  • 1 tbsp fresh lemon juice
  • 2 tsp extra virgin olive oil
  • 2 heaped tbsp greek yogurt, tzatziki or labneh
  • Sea salt
  • Black pepper

Method:

  1. Brush a griddle pan with oil and heat.
  2. Peel the cucumber, halve lengthways and scoop out the seeds with a teaspoon. Cut a strip off the rounded side of each half, so it will lie flat.
  3. Brush the cucumber with olive oil and season well, then chop into 2cm long crescents.
  4. Griddle the cucumber until charred and slightly softened.
  5. Mix the chopped herbs, preserved lemon, lemon juice and 1 tsp of the extra virgin olive oil together to make a dressing. This can be done by hand or in a mini food processor.
  6. Drain the mackerel and add it to the griddle pan to heat through and crisp up slightly. This should take 2-3 minutes.
  7. Toast the sourdough bread, then drizzle the toast with the remaining olive oil and grind over some black pepper.
  8. Top the slices of toast with the cucumber and mackerel, then drizzle a generous amount of the dressing over the top.
  9. Top with a dollop of the yogurt, tzatziki or labneh.

Recipe: Mulled wine with vanilla

Like mince pies and bread sauce, mulled wine is one of those things that gets relegated to the Christmas season when it should be enjoyed all year round. Nevertheless, while I’ll merrily quaff hot alcoholic drinks at almost any time of the year, I’ll admit that their appeal certainly grows with the onset of winter. Dark days and early nights mean that treats are needed, and this recipe provides exactly that.

The vanilla and the combination of whole spices make this mulled wine very different from what you’d get with the vast majority of pre-made ‘mulling spice’ mixes, and completely unrecognisable from the pre-mulled stuff that you can buy in bottles. The resulting drink is honeyed and rich, with the consistency of a very good sweet sherry; a shiny, syrupy liquid that clings the sides of a glass.

Tips

  • The quality and type of wine you use really does matter. Using bad wine will just result in bad mulled wine. Saying that, there’s no point using a really good quality or expensive wine when you’re going to be changing the flavour quite a lot. My rule of thumb is ‘don’t use anything that you wouldn’t be willing to drink in a pub’. I’ve had the best results using New World Merlot or Cabernet Sauvignon at around the £5 or £6 mark – supermarket own-brand ones are fine. These varieties are generally quite mild and rounded in flavour, so they don’t interfere with the spices, and are very easy to get hold of.
  • Don’t overdo it on the orange juice, or it all gets a bit ‘sangria’.
  • Only use best quality vanilla extract or a vanilla pod here. I swear by Nielsen Massey vanilla extract, which you can buy online, from Lakeland or from certain supermarkets. It is 100% worth the price and will last for ages.
  • The amounts of whole spices given below may seem a bit inexact, but how many you use of each will depend on their size and freshness – you’ll need to use your own judgement here.
  • The recipe is easily halved, doubled, tripled, quadrupled…
  • It’s best not to leave the pan on the heat once you’ve served some of the wine, as it will continue to reduce and may start to stick. If you’d like to serve it over a longer period of time, put a lid on the pan to keep it warm and just reheat it gently when you want some more. For a single batch made using the amounts given below, I use a thermos to keep it hot.

mulled_wine

MULLED WINE WITH VANILLA

Takes: 30 minutes

Makes: 6 small glasses or cups

Ingredients:

  • 1 bottle of red wine, preferably Merlot or Cabernet Sauvignon (see Tips)
  • 100 ml sweet fortified wine (Madeira, sweet sherry, port or a mixture)
  • 100ml smooth orange juice
  • 175g sugar, preferably demerara or muscovado
  • 1.5 tsp best-quality vanilla extract or vanilla bean paste, or 1 vanilla pod (see Tips)
  • 1 bay leaf
  • 7 or 8 cardamom pods, lightly crushed
  • 1 cinnamon stick, broken into halves
  • 5 or 6 whole cloves
  • 4 or 5 juniper berries, lightly crushed
  • 1/4 tsp of freshly-grated nutmeg
  • 1 star anise

Method:

  1. Pour the wine, fortified wine and orange juice into a large pan and bring to a simmer. Don’t let it boil.
  2. Add the spices and vanilla, and simmer for 5 minutes.
  3. Add the sugar and stir.
  4. Simmer gently for 15 to 20 minutes, stirring regularly.
  5. Strain the wine through a sieve, tea strainer or some muslin into another pan or a thermos (see Tips).
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Culinary volte-faces or: How I learned to shut up and chow down

Like many people, I was a difficult eater as a child. Mostly this was due to a severe intolerance to most artificial colourings and preservatives. I was the kid who had to take their own lunchbox to parties; a fact which still makes me shed a little tear of self-pity. Unnecessarily, I imagine, as I don’t recall it bothering me much at the time.

However, a large part of my fussy eating was due to sheer pigheadedness. There were a ton of things that I just wouldn’t touch, including an entire category called “things that have bits in”. I wasn’t quite in the league of my partner, who I’m told used to pick every single bit of onion out of his spaghetti bolognese. Unlike my poor mum-in-law, my parents at least had the blessing of a gullible child. For years I declared an undying hatred for mushrooms whilst blithely chowing down on tins of mushroom soup, which my mum told me was called “chickmush”. As you can tell, I wasn’t the most perceptive child. The mushroom thing changed, thankfully. I clearly remember walking up to my mum when I was about six and declaring with no preamble whatsoever that “I didn’t used to like mushrooms, but now I do”. Years later, they’re one of my all-time favourite foods.

These culinary volte-faces of mine have happened with many different foods over the years. Here are a few of my favourites:

Gherkins: I vividly recall claiming as a teenager that gherkins were “the second most disgusting food on the planet”. (Dry cat food was first on the list, incidentally. I tried it in order to see if I was missing out on anything. I wasn’t). Now, it’s a completely different story. I will happily munch gherkins straight from the jar, but I also love them in wraps, sandwiches and burgers. They work anywhere that a bit of crunch and vinegary sharpness is needed. Sadly, dry cat food remains disgusting.

Offal (within reason): As a meat-eater, I’m a great believer in the “use every part of an animal” philosophy. If something has died to provide you with a meal, the least you can do is make sure that you don’t waste large parts of its body. This ethos, combined with my interest in butchery, means that I’m not particularly squeamish about offal. Now, anyway. This wasn’t always the case. My first experience of eating offal was the kidney element of supermarket steak and kidney pies, i.e. barely-visible pieces of greyish, chewy matter. This gave me the hubristic notion that I now liked offal. I was utterly horrified when I ordered a steak and kidney pie at a family pub lunch and received something with actual kidneys in it. Now, I’ll happily eat whole kidneys, particularly on toast with a rich sauce, and I’ll cook with other types of offal. I’m afraid I still draw the line at eating something’s brains though, largely because the pattern of brains repulses me.

Shellfish: I’m still working on this one. I have a strong dislike of anything with a shell, and a phobia of one thing in particular (can’t even type the name, but it walks sideways and lives in water). I now love scallops, mussels and prawns, but it took me quite a few years to get to this point. Anything larger, like lobster, I’m still a bit iffy about.

Capers: I used to spend quite some time picking capers out of salads in restaurants. I don’t think I really objected to the flavour; it was more to do with their texture and the way they seem to congregate at the bottom of a bowl, so that all you had left at the end of the dish were capers. This was until I discovered the savage delights of chopping them up, so you get all of their sharp, fresh bitterness without the hassle of chasing them around your plate.

Olives: Olives are the example people always use when talking about foods that people grow to like, for good reason. A lot of people seem to grow up hating them, and eventually come to love them. When I’d make a disgusted face at my dad as he ate olives, he’d always tell me that I’d grow into them – green ones first, and then the black ones. He was completely right.

All this just goes to show that it’s important to question your culinary likes and dislikes, not just as a child but throughout your life. You could be missing out on something wonderful.

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New opportunities

Exciting news in the world of Rosefood!

I’m pleased to say that this month I will start doing some work with former Michelin-starred chef Andrew Sartain of The Wild Food Larder, learning about butchery, curing, smoking and foraging, as well as how to make delicious sausages and charcuterie. I’ll also be helping Andrew out on his stall at farmer’s markets in and around Bristol and Bath, so come and say hello if you’re in the area – more details when I’ve worked out the schedule!

Butchery, curing, smoking, foraging and generally learning how to make delicious, natural food from scratch are skills that I’ve wanted to develop for years now, so I’m delighted to finally have the opportunity. Given my passion for using herbs and spices, I’m particularly excited about getting a chance to put these together with the best produce and see what comes out.

I’ll do my best to blog my experiences so that others can see what I’m doing and learn along with me. It’s my first afternoon at the farm tomorrow and I can’t wait – I’ll try to take some photos if I’m not overwhelmed by excitement!

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Diet time

Alas, dear friends, that dreadful day has finally arrived. The day when I put down my fork and say “No, Rose. No more pie.”

It’s diet time.

Given that most of my life and about 75% of my brain power is taken up with planning, buying, cooking and eating tasty food, dieting is really not my speciality. I generally stick to a diet religiously for a couple of days, get all enthusiastic about its benefits, lose a few pounds, and then undo all my good work as soon as the weekend comes. I’ve never been very good at denying myself things.

It doesn’t help that the vast majority of low-fat and low-calories recipes are highly uninspiring. A lot of the recipes seem to be low-fat ‘makeovers’ of classic comfort food dishes. While I’ve made a few of these and they’re not all bad, I find that all I can think about while I’m eating them is how good the original, full-fat dish tastes. And then I can’t enjoy my food, and that’s no way to live.

So, over the next few months I’ll be on the lookout for recipes that are healthy and tasty in and of themselves, without sacrificing on flavour or making me feel like I’m missing something. I’ll be posting links to recipes that work well, along with any alterations that I’ve made to them, and I’ll hopefully be creating a few of my own.

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Recipe: Roasted fennel with lemon

Fennel is divisive; it seems to be the Marmite of the vegetable world. Personally, I love it, both for the taste and for the fact that it’s so versatile. You can eat it raw or cooked, and can use the bulb, the leaves and the seeds. Fennel bulbs lend themselves particularly well to roasting, bringing out a sweet and subtle aniseed flavour rather than the in-your-face liquorice taste that so many people seem to dislike. This year I’ve started growing my own fennel plants, and I’ve got my fingers crossed for a bumper crop later in the year.

The simple recipe below creates a sharp and sweet side dish that goes particularly well with fish. It would also work well with fatty pork or chicken, and could be roasted alongside them in the pan.

If you want some other great fennel recipes, there is a whole section on fennel in one of my favourite recipe books, Lucas Hollweg’s Good Things to Eat (affiliate link).

ROASTED FENNEL WITH LEMON

Takes: 45 minutes (5 minutes prep, 40 minutes cooking)

Makes: 4 side-dish-sized portions

Ingredients:

  • 2 fennel bulbs
  • Olive oil
  • White wine vinegar
  • Sea salt and black pepper
  • Approximately 4 tsp of fresh lemon juice

Method:

  1. Preheat oven to 200C.
  2. Remove any foliage and stalks from the fennel bulbs, as well as the white heart at the centre. Cut the fennel into large chunks and place in an oven dish.
  3. Drizzle the fennel with olive oil and a splash of white wine vinegar. Season well with sea salt and freshly ground black pepper.
  4. Roast in the preheated oven for 35 minutes, moving the fennel around the dish halfway through the cooking time.
  5. Take the dish out of the oven and squeeze the lemon juice over the fennel.
  6. Put the fennel back into the oven for 5 minutes, then serve immediately.
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Recipe: Roast potatoes

This is a very simple recipe for roast potatoes – no fancy tricks or additions. I spent a good few years refining this recipe and I finally settled on the Ockham’s razor approach to roasties: the simplest way is generally preferable.

Tips

  • It’s really important to cut all the potatoes to the same size, so that they roast evenly. I go for pieces of about 4cm x 4cm, or thereabouts (you don’t need to get your ruler out). If you’d prefer them smaller or bigger, remember that you may need to adjust the boiling and roasting times by a few minutes as a result.
  • I’ve had the best results using this cast iron roasting dish from Le Creuset. Cast iron dishes are a fantastic addition to a kitchen, as they’re incredibly versatile and give great results when used for roasting because of the even spread of heat. There are much cheaper ones on the market if your budget doesn’t stretch to Le Creuset (we got ours very cheap in a sale). A good metal roasting tin will do just fine here, however.
  • You’ll need to use your own judgement at the end of the cooking time. If you’re having these with a Sunday roast, it’s likely that you may need to stage the cooking time of the potatoes to match up with other things. If you need to keep them hot but don’t want them getting overcooked, take the dish out of the oven at the end of their cooking time, cover it tightly with foil and leave it on the side for as long as you need to. Five minutes before the potatoes need to be served, put the dish back into the hot oven to heat up.

The recipe makes more roast potatoes than this picture suggests. We'd already eaten a few by the time the photo was taken.

The recipe makes more roast potatoes than this picture suggests. We’d already eaten a few by the time the photo was taken.

ROAST POTATOES

Takes: 1 hour (10 minutes prep, 5 minutes boiling, 5 minutes drying, 40 minutes roasting)

Makes: Enough for 4 generous portions

Ingredients:

  • 700g floury potatoes (I prefer Maris Piper or King Edward)
  • Olive oil
  • Sea salt and black pepper

Method:

  1. Preheat the oven to 200°C.
  2. Bring a large pan of water up to the boil, with 1 tsp of salt added.
  3. Pour olive oil into a large roasting dish, so that the oil covers the base of the tin with no gaps. Put the dish into the preheated oven for the oil to heat up.
  4. Peel the potatoes. Cut them into large, even pieces (see Tips, above). I go for about 4cm x 4cm chunks.
  5. Boil the potatoes for 5 minutes and then drain in a colander. Leave the drained potatoes in the colander to dry out for approximately 5 minutes. Resist the urge to move them around.
  6. Take the dish out of the oven and quickly tip the potatoes into the hot oil (stand back, as they’ll spit). Season very generously with sea salt and freshly ground black pepper, then spread the potatoes out in the dish, making sure that they are all coated in the oil. Put them back into the oven as quickly as you can.
  7. Roast in the oven for 35 to 40 minutes. A couple of times during cooking, open the oven and give the dish a good shake to move the potatoes around. Depending on how crispy you want them, they may need to go in for another 5 minutes at the end of the cooking time.
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Most-used recipe books

I’m a recipe book addict. I can’t help myself. As someone with a lifelong love of good books and good food, I suppose recipe books are a natural weakness. Most of them I’ve read with excitement, turned tons of corners down, put on my “to cook” pile and never looked at again. However, there are a few that I’ve used repeatedly and will continue to use while newer, shinier ones languish on the bookcase.

So, here is a small selection of the most-used recipes books in my kitchen. These aren’t necessarily my favourite ones (I’m still working on that list – it’s much harder). These are the ones that I go back to over and over again, because I know I’ll get the information or the results that I need.

The River Cottage Family Cookbook by Hugh Fearnley-Whittingstall & Fizz Carr

While this wasn’t precisely my first recipe book (that was a much-loved copy of Roald Dahl’s Revolting Recipes), it was certainly the first one I cooked from consistently with good results. This did wonders for my cooking confidence, and led me on to try more complicated things. The recipes are what you’d expect from River Cottage – hearty, tasty and simple enough for even the most inexperienced cook, without being patronising or sacrificing on flavour. There are certain recipes in here, namely the spaghetti bolognese and the chocolate brownies, that I’ve made so many times I know them by heart.

See it on Amazon.co.uk (affiliate link).

Good Housekeeping Cookery Book by The Good Housekeeping Institute

As any well-loved recipe book should be, our copy of this book is tattered and stained, and several of the pages are stuck together with unidentified foodstuffs. Okay, so none of the recipes in it are going to set the modern culinary world on fire, but as a go-to guide for key techniques and classic recipes you can’t beat it. The tarte tatin recipe in this book was the first version I ever tried to make, and it was so good that I’ve never bothered to find an alternative. If I wanted to know how long to cook a joint of beef, or how to make mayonnaise from scratch, this is where I’d go first. A true kitchen staple.

See it on Amazon.co.uk (affiliate link).

The Hummingbird Bakery Cookbook by Tarek Malouf

Delicious cakes and consistently good results. This book was a present from my younger brother-in-law several Christmases ago, and I’ve been relying on it for all my cake-based needs ever since. I’m not actually a cake-lover myself – I generally find it too dry and too sweet. I’m vaguely mystified by how mad most people seem to go for it. Taking that into account, the fact that I ate three Hummingbird vanilla cupcakes in a row the first time I tried them should provide some indication of how nice they are. Any issue that I might have with cakes being dry is effectively combated by the artful inclusion of milk in the basic sponge mixture, which makes a world of difference.

See it on Amazon.co.uk (affiliate link).

——–

And finally…

The folders of doom

Ah, the folders of doom. These are a couple of tatty lever arch folders where I file endless cuttings and photocopies of recipes. Okay, so they’re not technically recipe books, but I couldn’t leave them off the list. These folders are where I go when I want to cook with a specific thing, e.g. lamb or fish, and want to browse through recipes that I’ve already decided I’ll like. I’m endlessly revising the filing (failing) system for the folders. It’s not uncommon for my partner to come home and find me on the sofa surrounded by torn-out pages from magazines, agonising over whether a recipe for lasagne should go under “Pasta” or “Beef” (Pasta, clearly). I am a librarian, after all – organising documents is how I get my kicks.

The original folder of doom. Majestic, isn't it?

The first folder of doom. Majestic, isn’t it?

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Recipe: Roasted vegetables

This is one of the most versatile dishes to have in your repertoire, as it’s delicious on its own or as an accompaniment to other things (see the “More Ideas” section below for some suggestions). A wide variety of vegetables lend themselves to roasting, so its a great dish for using up whatever veg you happen to have, as well as making it adaptable to what’s in season. The recipe below is my favourite combination, but there are hundreds of different combinations to try. The veg needn’t be super-fresh, and you can use as many or as few types as you like, although it is nice to have a colourful variety. I tend to make a large batch in one go, both because of the ease with which you can use up the leftovers, and the fact that once you’ve got the knives out and have made a lovely vegetable-based mess, you may as well just keep chopping.

Tips

While this is a very simple recipe (if a little labour-intensive to begin with), there are a couple of tricks that will make all the difference to the end result.

  • Don’t be tempted to pile all of the vegetables into one, deep roasting tin. I’ve made this mistake too many times. The vegetables will release quite a bit of water as they cook. If they’re piled too high in the tin, the water won’t be able to evaporate and the veg at the bottom will become very soggy. As I’m not lucky enough to own a massive, shallow tin, I’ve got the best results by dividing the mixed vegetables between two shallow roasting tins or oven dishes.
  • Use good-quality tins or dishes. By “good-quality” I don’t necessarily mean expensive or in pristine condition – mine are certainly neither of those things. It’s more about having a tin or dish with an even distribution of heat. If you look at the photos, you can see that I was actually using a pie dish. Whatever works.
  • Don’t be afraid of the vegetables getting a little bit stuck to the base and sides of the tin – it’s this light burning, or caramelisation if you want a more pleasant term for it, that gives the dish it’s delicious sweet and smoky flavour.

More ideas…

  • Roasted vegetables work especially well with lamb, particularly if it has Middle-Eastern or Mediterranean flavours. Try them with my simple, spicy marinated lamb recipe.
  • Mix into cooked couscous for a delicious filling meal that can be eaten hot or cold. Add slices of griddled halloumi to make it even more tasty.
  • Leftover veg can be reheated in a medium oven under tinfoil, and used hot or cold in wraps or sandwiches with hoummous or cream cheese.

ROASTED VEGETABLES

Takes: 25 minutes to prepare, 50 minutes to cook

Makes: Approximately 8 side-dish-sized portions

Ingredients:

  • 1 aubergine
  • 1 orange pepper
  • 1 red pepper
  • 1 yellow pepper
  • 1 sweet potato, peeled
  • 1 courgette
  • 1 red onion, peeled
  • 1 red chilli
  • 400g – 500g cherry tomatoes
  • 4 or 5 cloves of garlic
  • Olive oil
  • Balsamic vinegar
  • 2 tsp ground cumin
  • Sea salt and black pepper

Method:

  1. Preheat the oven to 200°C.
  2. Cut the aubergine, peppers and sweet potato into large chunks.
  3. Chop the courgette into thick rounds.
  4. Halve the red onion and then cut each half into quarters, so that the onion is divided into eight pieces.
  5. Roughly chop the chilli, removing the seeds if preferred.
  6. Peel the garlic and roughly chop into large pieces.
  7. Drizzle olive oil into shallow roasting tins or oven dishes (see “Tips”, above). Divide the chopped aubergine, peppers, sweet potato, courgette, onion, chilli and garlic equally between the dishes, along with the whole cherry tomatoes.
  8. Season the vegetables generously with sea salt and plenty of ground black pepper. Sprinkle the ground cumin over the vegetables, dividing it between the dishes as necessary. Add a good splash of balsamic vinegar and another drizzle of olive oil to each dish.
  9. Mix the vegetables well, preferably using your hands, until all of the pieces have a light coating of the oil, vinegar, cumin and seasoning.
  10. Roast in the preheated oven for around 50 minutes, checking them every 10-15 minutes and lightly shaking the dishes if the vegetables seem to be getting too crisp.
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Recipe: Spicy marinade for barbecued, griddled or grilled lamb

This is a simple, spicy marinade for lamb steaks or chops that works best when the meat is cooked on a barbecue, a griddle pan or under a very hot grill.

Large lamb leg steaks, fresh from my favourite local butcher, are my preferred cut of lamb for this marinade, as they take on the flavours very quickly and remain tender and juicy when fast-cooked. But any lamb steaks or chops work really well here.

The first time I used this marinade, we cooked the lamb on the barbecue and it went completely black. I got very cross with my other-half for burning it, before discovering that it was actually perfectly cooked. What had blackened was the marinade and, far from spoiling the flavours, it tasted amazing against the rare lamb.

I’ve deliberately not included cooking times for the marinated lamb here, as these will depend completely on what cut of lamb you are using and how rare you want it. I generally use lamb leg steaks and cook them on a very hot griddle pan for two minutes on each side, as I like my meat rare. How you do it is completely up to you.

SPICY MARINADE FOR BARBECUED, GRIDDLED OR GRILLED LAMB

Takes: 5 minutes to prepare (plus 1hr+ marinating time)

Makes: Enough for two large lamb steaks or 3-4 lamb chops

Ingredients:

  • 1 tsp harissa paste (my favourite is by Bart Spice’s)
  • A good glug of garlic oil (or olive oil with 1 clove of crushed garlic)
  • 1 tsp ground cumin
  • 1/2 tsp ground coriander
  • Juice of 1/2 a lemon
  • Pinch of sea salt
  • Approximately 1 tsp ground black pepper, to taste

Method:

  1. Add all of the ingredients to a large bowl and mix well.
  2. Place the lamb steaks or chops into the bowl and rub the marinade into the meat with your hands.
  3. Cover the bowl and place in the fridge to marinate for at least an hour, preferably longer.
  4. Take the bowl out the fridge at least an hour before cooking to allow the lamb to warm up slightly.
  5. When you want to cook, lift the lamb out of the bowl, allowing any excess marinade to drip off.
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